Hello! For almost the last time!
Up this morning and reassembled everything and downstairs about 7 a.m. As it is a bank holiday in the U.K. I think Dan and Phil were hoping for a lie-in. However, while Leo is a VERY good sleeper, 6:30 a.m. was about the limit for him this morning.
We had a bit of breakfast and were on the road about 8:30. Did miss saying goodbye to Marian, Phil’s Mum, who is a really wonderful lady! Hopefully, we’ll be able to catch up with her soon! And, as it was a bank holiday, there was very little traffic at all! We made it to the Sheraton at Heathrow by 9:30! We were able to get in our room, so we dropped our luggage and then headed out immediately for London. We drove the almost 2 miles to the Hounslow East tube station car park, left the car (for free, as it was a holiday!) and caught the 10 a.m. train! We were actually at the British Museum by 11-ish!
There was a HUGE crowd of visitors, but we were able to get to our two favorite things: The Rosetta Stone (which is now totally encased behind glass, which is different from the last time we saw it!) and the Elgin Marbles. Had a good look around, and also spent some time in the Mesopotamian exhibits. Hadn’t realized that the B.M. has such a good collection; will definitely be back to spend more time!
By this time it was noon, and the B.M.’s wonderful restaurant on the top floor of the great court was open. Now that is the way to go … great museum and FABULOUS food!
We started with glasses of Prosecco with our starters. R had their clear tomato consume with crayfish. I had their Caesar salad. Both were excellent! (And it’s fascinating being the first people in a restaurant where very tired sightseers are walking past, often with unhappy children – and GLARING at you while you’re having great wine and even better food!) For mains, we both took their beef fillets with a port wine reduction. They came with something called “jersey rolls” – which turned out to be some small roasted potatoes, and baked asparagus. For dessert, we both went with the special Kent strawberry menu – R had his with balsamic vinegar and pepper, and I had them with chocolate fondue…incredible! The only bad part is that we’d jointly decided that R should leave his camera at the hotel…bad decision! We’ll just have to go back and redo the meal for blogging purposes!
Saw a few other displays after lunch, but to be honest, after a great meal and two glasses of wine, we both needed naps! So, back to the Holburn tube station and out on the train. Actually had to get off at one point, as trains were running so far behind, that they were changing stops and schedules on the fly! But did manage to get back to East Hounslow, collect the car and get back to the airport. This time we stopped for gas at the Total station right across the street from the hotel – we’re now ready to head for the airport first thing tomorrow morning!
R did some work this afternoon, and I napped. We had dinner here at the hotel, and it was really good! (Why do I sound so surprised?!) R had fish and chips after his Caesar salad, and I had their salad buffet followed by their hot buffet. In no need of dessert…back to the room about 8-ish for an early night!
Take care; lots of love!
m
x
Monday, May 30, 2011
Sunday, May 29, 2011
Hello!
Well, it has certainly been a very busy day today here! Leo’s Christening took place at the 10 a.m. service at St. Luke’s Church of England in Dunston, just a couple of miles from here. The church, which was also where Dan and Philippa were married, is quite old and really lovely! Bells were calling people to service by the time we arrived, and the wonderful church people had designated seats for the guests coming for the christening. The vicar was wonderful; a great sense of humor and obviously a very warm and caring person. As the last christening I was at was my own, I had no idea of what would happen, but the vicar was very good at explaining things, both before they happened and while they were going on.
About mid-way through the service, Leo Edwin Abraham Sillis was baptized – and he absolutely loved it! He was dressed in a really cute waistcoat and pants in a tan color, with a white shirt. He definitely looked very prim and proper! He is such a cutie – with the greatest smile – and when the vicar took him from Dan for the actual pouring of water, he just laughed and smiled all the way through! He thought it such fun! He is a very lucky boy, having five God parents to help him! There were lots of friends and family members with babies or small children, and I think everybody had a really good time!
After the service, we all adjourned to the Elgar Centre, which is right on the property of Dan and Phil’s development. It’s a lovely new space, with lots of room and a great kitchen. Lots of food – vegetable trays and sandwiches and wraps, along with crisps (potato chips) a wonderful cake and pastries! Believe me, no one went home hungry at all! (Leo had two cakes – the first being an English tradition. Phil and Dan had saved the top layer of their wedding cake, and it was refrosted and decorated with wonderful jungle animals. I think that is such a neat idea – and the cake was delicious!)
Just a bit of the cake -
We ambled back to the house about 3:30, with Dan, Phil, Leo and Marian arriving home a little later. Two of Dan’s sisters and their families, and his Mom and Stepdad and Phil’s brother and sister and best friend and her family all came over for a last minute chat, which was wonderful. These are all tremendously nice people; very, very lovely family!
There wasn’t much left of the afternoon by the time everyone departed, but Dan and Phil and Marian made a great sausage casserole with beans, broccoli, carrots and roasted potatoes – I have to say, terrific food they serve here! It was nice to have a (fairly) quiet meal, with a few more pieces of christening cake and ice cream for dessert! It’s now almost 10, and to be honest, I don’t know how they are all still standing! We are falling asleep!
Up tomorrow and out to head for Heathrow. We’ll store our luggage at the hotel and dash into London for an afternoon at the British Museum…so, more tomorrow night!
Much love,
m
x
Well, it has certainly been a very busy day today here! Leo’s Christening took place at the 10 a.m. service at St. Luke’s Church of England in Dunston, just a couple of miles from here. The church, which was also where Dan and Philippa were married, is quite old and really lovely! Bells were calling people to service by the time we arrived, and the wonderful church people had designated seats for the guests coming for the christening. The vicar was wonderful; a great sense of humor and obviously a very warm and caring person. As the last christening I was at was my own, I had no idea of what would happen, but the vicar was very good at explaining things, both before they happened and while they were going on.
About mid-way through the service, Leo Edwin Abraham Sillis was baptized – and he absolutely loved it! He was dressed in a really cute waistcoat and pants in a tan color, with a white shirt. He definitely looked very prim and proper! He is such a cutie – with the greatest smile – and when the vicar took him from Dan for the actual pouring of water, he just laughed and smiled all the way through! He thought it such fun! He is a very lucky boy, having five God parents to help him! There were lots of friends and family members with babies or small children, and I think everybody had a really good time!
After the service, we all adjourned to the Elgar Centre, which is right on the property of Dan and Phil’s development. It’s a lovely new space, with lots of room and a great kitchen. Lots of food – vegetable trays and sandwiches and wraps, along with crisps (potato chips) a wonderful cake and pastries! Believe me, no one went home hungry at all! (Leo had two cakes – the first being an English tradition. Phil and Dan had saved the top layer of their wedding cake, and it was refrosted and decorated with wonderful jungle animals. I think that is such a neat idea – and the cake was delicious!)
Just a bit of the cake -
We ambled back to the house about 3:30, with Dan, Phil, Leo and Marian arriving home a little later. Two of Dan’s sisters and their families, and his Mom and Stepdad and Phil’s brother and sister and best friend and her family all came over for a last minute chat, which was wonderful. These are all tremendously nice people; very, very lovely family!
There wasn’t much left of the afternoon by the time everyone departed, but Dan and Phil and Marian made a great sausage casserole with beans, broccoli, carrots and roasted potatoes – I have to say, terrific food they serve here! It was nice to have a (fairly) quiet meal, with a few more pieces of christening cake and ice cream for dessert! It’s now almost 10, and to be honest, I don’t know how they are all still standing! We are falling asleep!
Up tomorrow and out to head for Heathrow. We’ll store our luggage at the hotel and dash into London for an afternoon at the British Museum…so, more tomorrow night!
Much love,
m
x
Saturday, May 28, 2011
Terrific football on a cool and blustery day!
Hello!
Yesterday was my first non-blogging day, but that was because of a football (American soccer) game last night!
So…Dinner on Friday night was fabulous! Philippa (with a little help from Mum and friends…) made a mushroom tart to start, followed by lasagna and two salads, garlic bread and then a great strawberry trifle to finish. Everything was GREAT! Phil’s Uncle David and Aunt Anne joined us, and we have a really lovely evening! People are beginning to gather for Leo’s christening! Uncle David and Aunt Anne brought Leo a silver mug that has been in Phil’s family since 1832 – along with a family tree showing the relationships of everyone who had it, down to Leo. It is amazing; what a wonderful gift!
Up fairly early and we were out the door about 9. First went (believe it or not) to the Costco in Milton Keynes. We were curious to see what it was like, and were also looking for a really good road atlas (ours is rather out of date besides still residing in Tucson).
The Costco was amazing! It is laid out almost exactly like ours at home, even down to the bathroom locations (ask me how I know that…)! Robert talked to the manager (he wanted to see if our Amex Costco card would work there; it wouldn’t now, but will next year!) who said that all U.K. locations are laid out on the same plan as the U.S. Who knew? The store had a terrific wine section – lots of French, Australian and South African wines available. We did pick up a couple of bottles… The only difference was that this one wasn’t absolutely over-run with people and we could actually get to a check-out counter quickly! I’m sure that will change as word spreads across the country…
From Milton Keynes, we headed to Little Rollright, to see the Rollright stones – a Neolithic stone circle. Lovely drive across country; rather blustery weather, and lots and lots of rain patches. Had a good walk around the stone circle, and then took off for Bibury, our favorite Cotswold town, for lunch.
Rollright stones -
And of course it was lambing season...
Bibury, as per usual, was packed with people – at least three bus-loads full. We found the Catherine Wheel (local pub) and had a really lovely lunch! We both had starters of tomato soup with pesto and brown bread (excellent for a cold and blustery day!). R had trout – directly from the trout farm down the road -- with roasted potatoes. I had a wonderful supreme of corn-fed chicken with peas, bacon and pearl onions; just terrific! Declined dessert and started back toward Upton.
A few scenes from Bibury, including our favorite English hotel, the Bibury Court!
Took us about an hour to return about 3:30-ish. Dan’s sister Louise and her husband Alex and their 5-month old Amelie had arrived, and we had a nice visit. I got in a load of laundry, and with the sun coming out just a little bit, hung it out in the line to dry. Nobody here can understand why no one in AZ or CA hangs out their washing…(tried to explain about CCR’s and Associations), but didn’t manage too well; everyone incredulous. Doesn’t seem to make much sense, does it? Wonder if our neighbors would complain if we put up a washline…hmmm…
Football game came up quickly – Barcelona (MY team) vs. Man U. We did take out from a local restaurant – some pizza, some salad, some kebabs. WAY too much food around! Game was brilliant, as long as you were rooting for Barca! It was 1-1 at the half, but then Lionel Messi (greatest player in the world!) broke the deadlock in the second period, and it was capped off by David Villa’s third goal. VERY, very happy – as I sat in my Barca jersey with scarf around my neck…I know…I’m odd…
By the time it was over, and Phil’s best friend since childhood, Jill and her son, Ashley had arrived for a brief visit, I was too tired to blog…so…
Up about 6, and getting ready for the christening! Probably about 60 people…lots to do! So – more later!
Love,
m
x
Yesterday was my first non-blogging day, but that was because of a football (American soccer) game last night!
So…Dinner on Friday night was fabulous! Philippa (with a little help from Mum and friends…) made a mushroom tart to start, followed by lasagna and two salads, garlic bread and then a great strawberry trifle to finish. Everything was GREAT! Phil’s Uncle David and Aunt Anne joined us, and we have a really lovely evening! People are beginning to gather for Leo’s christening! Uncle David and Aunt Anne brought Leo a silver mug that has been in Phil’s family since 1832 – along with a family tree showing the relationships of everyone who had it, down to Leo. It is amazing; what a wonderful gift!
Up fairly early and we were out the door about 9. First went (believe it or not) to the Costco in Milton Keynes. We were curious to see what it was like, and were also looking for a really good road atlas (ours is rather out of date besides still residing in Tucson).
The Costco was amazing! It is laid out almost exactly like ours at home, even down to the bathroom locations (ask me how I know that…)! Robert talked to the manager (he wanted to see if our Amex Costco card would work there; it wouldn’t now, but will next year!) who said that all U.K. locations are laid out on the same plan as the U.S. Who knew? The store had a terrific wine section – lots of French, Australian and South African wines available. We did pick up a couple of bottles… The only difference was that this one wasn’t absolutely over-run with people and we could actually get to a check-out counter quickly! I’m sure that will change as word spreads across the country…
From Milton Keynes, we headed to Little Rollright, to see the Rollright stones – a Neolithic stone circle. Lovely drive across country; rather blustery weather, and lots and lots of rain patches. Had a good walk around the stone circle, and then took off for Bibury, our favorite Cotswold town, for lunch.
Rollright stones -
And of course it was lambing season...
Bibury, as per usual, was packed with people – at least three bus-loads full. We found the Catherine Wheel (local pub) and had a really lovely lunch! We both had starters of tomato soup with pesto and brown bread (excellent for a cold and blustery day!). R had trout – directly from the trout farm down the road -- with roasted potatoes. I had a wonderful supreme of corn-fed chicken with peas, bacon and pearl onions; just terrific! Declined dessert and started back toward Upton.
A few scenes from Bibury, including our favorite English hotel, the Bibury Court!
Took us about an hour to return about 3:30-ish. Dan’s sister Louise and her husband Alex and their 5-month old Amelie had arrived, and we had a nice visit. I got in a load of laundry, and with the sun coming out just a little bit, hung it out in the line to dry. Nobody here can understand why no one in AZ or CA hangs out their washing…(tried to explain about CCR’s and Associations), but didn’t manage too well; everyone incredulous. Doesn’t seem to make much sense, does it? Wonder if our neighbors would complain if we put up a washline…hmmm…
Football game came up quickly – Barcelona (MY team) vs. Man U. We did take out from a local restaurant – some pizza, some salad, some kebabs. WAY too much food around! Game was brilliant, as long as you were rooting for Barca! It was 1-1 at the half, but then Lionel Messi (greatest player in the world!) broke the deadlock in the second period, and it was capped off by David Villa’s third goal. VERY, very happy – as I sat in my Barca jersey with scarf around my neck…I know…I’m odd…
By the time it was over, and Phil’s best friend since childhood, Jill and her son, Ashley had arrived for a brief visit, I was too tired to blog…so…
Up about 6, and getting ready for the christening! Probably about 60 people…lots to do! So – more later!
Love,
m
x
Friday, May 27, 2011
Back in the U.K.!
Hello! (Back in the U.K. now, so no more “bonjour!”
Up about 5 (thanks to the alarm) and out the door about 6 a.m. No problem getting out of the parking garage, but boy, talk about a round-about way to get out of Bordeaux…SO happy that there wasn’t much traffic, as there were many twists and turns and one-way streets before we finally headed out on the road to the airport! Very difficult, though, trying to find gas so early in the morning, as we were all the way there and needed to fill up! We even thought that we might have to turn the car in with only half a tank! Decided on one last try and Emmy led us to an open gas station…thankfully! (It turns out, that many of the gas stations in France have become automated, and will only work with credit cards that have the chips embedded in them…UGH! Of course, the U.S. doesn’t embed chips at all!)
Arrived of course 2 1/2 hours early, and were a bit bewildered at first, as our EasyJet flight was not going out of concourse A or B – but something called Billi!! Finally found a separate what looked like pre-fab building, which is apparently where the EasyJet and RyanAir flights are relegated. Check-in was a breeze (we were first in line) and through immigration and on to the plane. As two of the first on, we were able to get our favorite seats – window and aisle on the front row! Plane pulled out on time, and a flawless flight to Luton.
Landed to a VERY breezy and coolish day – something like 13 degrees C, which is VERY different from what we’ve been experiencing! Caught the shuttle bus to the rental car location, and 15 minutes later, we were on our way to Dan and Philippa’s house in Upton, Northampton. (Note to travelers: Unlike Heathrow, where it takes a LONG time for “other” passports to get through immigration and it’s very easy for those from the EU, at Luton, the reverse holds true, and we were through very quickly!)
It took about 45 minutes to get from Luton to Upton. Philippa’s mum, Marion, is here helping Philippa while Phil is doing some work. Met Leo, and he is just incredibly adorable! Had a really good visit, and now want to get this posted – with a few photographs – before dinner time! SO very, very nice to be here; very much looking forward to the christening on Sunday! So…pictures of Leo with mum, Philippa, dad, Dan, and Grandmum, Marion!
Lots of love,
m
x
Up about 5 (thanks to the alarm) and out the door about 6 a.m. No problem getting out of the parking garage, but boy, talk about a round-about way to get out of Bordeaux…SO happy that there wasn’t much traffic, as there were many twists and turns and one-way streets before we finally headed out on the road to the airport! Very difficult, though, trying to find gas so early in the morning, as we were all the way there and needed to fill up! We even thought that we might have to turn the car in with only half a tank! Decided on one last try and Emmy led us to an open gas station…thankfully! (It turns out, that many of the gas stations in France have become automated, and will only work with credit cards that have the chips embedded in them…UGH! Of course, the U.S. doesn’t embed chips at all!)
Arrived of course 2 1/2 hours early, and were a bit bewildered at first, as our EasyJet flight was not going out of concourse A or B – but something called Billi!! Finally found a separate what looked like pre-fab building, which is apparently where the EasyJet and RyanAir flights are relegated. Check-in was a breeze (we were first in line) and through immigration and on to the plane. As two of the first on, we were able to get our favorite seats – window and aisle on the front row! Plane pulled out on time, and a flawless flight to Luton.
Landed to a VERY breezy and coolish day – something like 13 degrees C, which is VERY different from what we’ve been experiencing! Caught the shuttle bus to the rental car location, and 15 minutes later, we were on our way to Dan and Philippa’s house in Upton, Northampton. (Note to travelers: Unlike Heathrow, where it takes a LONG time for “other” passports to get through immigration and it’s very easy for those from the EU, at Luton, the reverse holds true, and we were through very quickly!)
It took about 45 minutes to get from Luton to Upton. Philippa’s mum, Marion, is here helping Philippa while Phil is doing some work. Met Leo, and he is just incredibly adorable! Had a really good visit, and now want to get this posted – with a few photographs – before dinner time! SO very, very nice to be here; very much looking forward to the christening on Sunday! So…pictures of Leo with mum, Philippa, dad, Dan, and Grandmum, Marion!
Lots of love,
m
x
Thursday, May 26, 2011
Our last night en France!
Bonjour!
We are now ensconced in the Hotel Majestic in the heart of Bordeaux, where we actually have WIFI in our ROOM as well as television! I got to see some of the French Open this afternoon! Yipee!
Up about 7 and to gather ourselves. We walked down for our last WIFI check at the wonderful Hotel Royal Vezere, then R bought our morning croissants, and finally to the post office to mail a box. We have discovered over the years that the French international postal boxes work incredibly well, and certainly do lighten the load on luggage! We shipped back mostly paper products, such as books and maps that we no longer have need of, as well as our kitchen supplies, a few tins of pate, some salt, and various other things we’d collected during the past couple of weeks.
Home for breakfast, and then the clean-up of the house. As it really wasn’t dirty, it didn’t take too long to accomplish; I packed the suitcases while R did dishes and ran the vacuum cleaner. Just as we were putting the cases into the car, Pat, the housekeeper for the owner of the house dropped by. Had a really nice chat with her; she and her husband are Brits who relocated to this part of France about 11 years ago, and now make this their full-time home. Very interesting talking about various local places to visit; hope to see her again the next time we come this way! We turned the house keys over to her, and were on the road about 10:30 a.m. It is actually very overcast today, and as we pulled out of Le Bugue, there was a very fine mist falling – made for ideal driving weather!
We took a very rambling route into Bordeaux. Emmy kept trying to put us on to the motorway, but we keep breaking off on to side roads. The trip normally takes about 2 hours, but we managed to make it in 2 ½ going round and about a bit. Passed thousands and thousands of grape vines…obviously they do that well here!
Found our way to the Hotel Majestic with no trouble at all. Dropped our suitcases (their very tiny garage was full) and headed to Parking Jean-Jaures, just down the street to leave the car. We’re in a lovely, large room with three sets of French windows. As the wind is rather brisk today, we changed into jeans and headed out the door looking for a late lunch. The hotel recommended restaurant Karl, which was only a few blocks away, in Place du Parliament. Karl is a soup and salad kind of place, and our salads were wonderful! Robert again had the vegetarian salad, which this time came with white cheese, beets, egg, tomato, carrots, lettuce and a huge pile of sliced mushrooms. My salad Karl came with marinated chicken, sun dried tomatoes and grilled aubergine; it was great!
By this time, we were both rather sleepy, so back to the hotel for nice naps. Up around 6 and R went to work on some Caltech business. I watched the French Open on TV! As we had had such a large and late lunch, we weren’t particularly hungry, but needed to get something. So, out again around 8, and this time found a small Japanese restaurant, which was just what we needed. We both had soup, salad and rice, some ebi sushi, and then small skewers of beef, chicken and shrimp. Perfect ending to a lovely day!
Back in the hotel and I for one will be heading to bed soon. We want to be on the road to the airport by 7, to catch our plane to Luton, so up early to repack everything!
More tomorrow!
Much love,
m
x
We are now ensconced in the Hotel Majestic in the heart of Bordeaux, where we actually have WIFI in our ROOM as well as television! I got to see some of the French Open this afternoon! Yipee!
Up about 7 and to gather ourselves. We walked down for our last WIFI check at the wonderful Hotel Royal Vezere, then R bought our morning croissants, and finally to the post office to mail a box. We have discovered over the years that the French international postal boxes work incredibly well, and certainly do lighten the load on luggage! We shipped back mostly paper products, such as books and maps that we no longer have need of, as well as our kitchen supplies, a few tins of pate, some salt, and various other things we’d collected during the past couple of weeks.
Home for breakfast, and then the clean-up of the house. As it really wasn’t dirty, it didn’t take too long to accomplish; I packed the suitcases while R did dishes and ran the vacuum cleaner. Just as we were putting the cases into the car, Pat, the housekeeper for the owner of the house dropped by. Had a really nice chat with her; she and her husband are Brits who relocated to this part of France about 11 years ago, and now make this their full-time home. Very interesting talking about various local places to visit; hope to see her again the next time we come this way! We turned the house keys over to her, and were on the road about 10:30 a.m. It is actually very overcast today, and as we pulled out of Le Bugue, there was a very fine mist falling – made for ideal driving weather!
We took a very rambling route into Bordeaux. Emmy kept trying to put us on to the motorway, but we keep breaking off on to side roads. The trip normally takes about 2 hours, but we managed to make it in 2 ½ going round and about a bit. Passed thousands and thousands of grape vines…obviously they do that well here!
Found our way to the Hotel Majestic with no trouble at all. Dropped our suitcases (their very tiny garage was full) and headed to Parking Jean-Jaures, just down the street to leave the car. We’re in a lovely, large room with three sets of French windows. As the wind is rather brisk today, we changed into jeans and headed out the door looking for a late lunch. The hotel recommended restaurant Karl, which was only a few blocks away, in Place du Parliament. Karl is a soup and salad kind of place, and our salads were wonderful! Robert again had the vegetarian salad, which this time came with white cheese, beets, egg, tomato, carrots, lettuce and a huge pile of sliced mushrooms. My salad Karl came with marinated chicken, sun dried tomatoes and grilled aubergine; it was great!
By this time, we were both rather sleepy, so back to the hotel for nice naps. Up around 6 and R went to work on some Caltech business. I watched the French Open on TV! As we had had such a large and late lunch, we weren’t particularly hungry, but needed to get something. So, out again around 8, and this time found a small Japanese restaurant, which was just what we needed. We both had soup, salad and rice, some ebi sushi, and then small skewers of beef, chicken and shrimp. Perfect ending to a lovely day!
Back in the hotel and I for one will be heading to bed soon. We want to be on the road to the airport by 7, to catch our plane to Luton, so up early to repack everything!
More tomorrow!
Much love,
m
x
Wednesday, May 25, 2011
Lots and lots of miles…or kilometers...
Bonjour!
Just back now, at 5:30 p.m.; left at 8:30 this morning…but first, last night’s dinner!
Went again to the Hotel Royal Vezere (it’s the least we can do, for letting us use their WiFi free of charge!) for dinner. Robert started with a composed salad – different than mine of the other night, as it also included white asparagus and melon! His main course was a fillet of sandre (also known locally as pikeperch, whatever that is!) in a cream sauce with cauliflower. For desert he had a poached pear with strawberries and a fruit coulis. It looked wonderful, and he said it was delicious! I started with the chef’s special garlic soup. It was wonderful, and believe me, there were NO vampires anywhere NEAR Le Bugue last night! From there I had the entrecote in a bordelaise wine sauce with shallots, as well as sautéed potatoes, haricots vert and a grilled tomato; excellent! I again had the chocolate cake with cream sauce…no calories there, believe me! Got back to the house around 10:30 p.m.
Up about 7 a.m. and while I showered and cleaned up, R walked back into town for the morning email check as well as to get croissants for breakfast. The wonderful croissants with raspberry jam and orange juice made an ideal breakfast, yet again! We were out the door by 8:30, as I knew it would take some time to get to Pech-Merle cave, and I didn’t want to run into their two-hour lunch break. Emmy guided us on a very interesting and scenic route, and we reach the cave about 10:15. We had been to Pech-Merle before, but it is a very interesting painted cave and we wanted to see it again. The only problem was that their group size – 25 people – was WAY too large to work at all! The people straggling at the end of the group were totally left out of seeing the paintings. Not sure if it was the fault of the guide – who truthfully, wasn’t very good – or just the way they always work things; don’t seem to have this recollection at all from our prior visit. They have a small museum as well as an interesting movie to watch before the tour, which does help you get your eye tuned in to what you’ll be seeing. Pech-Merle cave does have some unique drawings. They have a representation of a man with arrows in him, as well as some totally random symbols that have yet to be explained. They also have red and black spots on their animals, which also hasn’t been explained, but does help to make the figures a bit more interesting. In one panel, in different places, there are five different hand prints – mostly right hands, but one left hand – that the artist(s) included quite randomly. Some of the work has been carbon dated to 25,000 years old, some of the very oldest in Europe.
The road to Figeac -
After leaving Pech-Merle, we headed to Figeac, about 30 km away. We were desperately seeking gas for the car, but of course most places were closed for lunch! Finally Emmy guided us to a Total gas station in town that was open – whew! Cutting it a bit too close for me! We particularly wanted to see Figeac, as it is the hometown of Jean-Francois Champollion, the man who deciphered the Rosetta Stone, and they have a museum there that we wanted to see. We parked near the oldest part of town and went in to a local café for lunch. Robert had the vegetarian salad, which he said was good, and I had a GREAT Salade Paysanne – lettuce, tomato, warm boiled potatoes and warm ham cut up and all dressed in a mustard vinaigrette – it was fabulous and I ate every bite!
Wandered through some VERY old streets to the Musee Champollion. It is WONDERFUL! The first floor is dedicated to his life and work, and gives some explanations on how he was able to decipher the Rosetta Stone. The second floor had to do with Champollion’s work as the first Curator of the Egyptian Collection at the Louvre in Paris, as well as showcase pieces of his own personal collection of artifacts; very impressive. The top two floors of the museum had to do with the history of writing – showed examples from all over the world from the earliest cuneiform through to printing presses, and talked about how the spoken language was gradually written down and managed to work its way around the world. Special emphasis was put on Mayan writing which is currently undergoing analysis right now. The courtyard outside of the museum had a very LARGE copy of the Rosetta Stone in the middle – just looking at it, it’s truly a wonder that anybody figured out what it said!
From the museum we decided to head back, as we had a fairly lengthy 2+ hour drive in front of us. This time we stayed more on the main roads, which has its pluses and minuses, but did manage to make it back here and collapse about 5:15! I’m blogging now, and then we’ll think about what we’re doing for dinner tonight, as neither of us feels like cooking!
We do have one change in the itinerary – we are leaving Le Bugue tomorrow, rather than very early on Friday morning. We do have a 9-something a.m. flight from Bordeaux to Luton, England to catch, and R was rightly concerned that we’d have to really move it to get there on time. So, I’ve booked us in to the Hotel Majestic (lovely place in the centre of Bordeaux, where we stayed last year) for the night! That means 1) TV (so I’ll be able to watch a few minutes of the French Open, and 2) Internet access in our ROOM! What a concept!!
So – more later!
m
x
Just back now, at 5:30 p.m.; left at 8:30 this morning…but first, last night’s dinner!
Went again to the Hotel Royal Vezere (it’s the least we can do, for letting us use their WiFi free of charge!) for dinner. Robert started with a composed salad – different than mine of the other night, as it also included white asparagus and melon! His main course was a fillet of sandre (also known locally as pikeperch, whatever that is!) in a cream sauce with cauliflower. For desert he had a poached pear with strawberries and a fruit coulis. It looked wonderful, and he said it was delicious! I started with the chef’s special garlic soup. It was wonderful, and believe me, there were NO vampires anywhere NEAR Le Bugue last night! From there I had the entrecote in a bordelaise wine sauce with shallots, as well as sautéed potatoes, haricots vert and a grilled tomato; excellent! I again had the chocolate cake with cream sauce…no calories there, believe me! Got back to the house around 10:30 p.m.
Up about 7 a.m. and while I showered and cleaned up, R walked back into town for the morning email check as well as to get croissants for breakfast. The wonderful croissants with raspberry jam and orange juice made an ideal breakfast, yet again! We were out the door by 8:30, as I knew it would take some time to get to Pech-Merle cave, and I didn’t want to run into their two-hour lunch break. Emmy guided us on a very interesting and scenic route, and we reach the cave about 10:15. We had been to Pech-Merle before, but it is a very interesting painted cave and we wanted to see it again. The only problem was that their group size – 25 people – was WAY too large to work at all! The people straggling at the end of the group were totally left out of seeing the paintings. Not sure if it was the fault of the guide – who truthfully, wasn’t very good – or just the way they always work things; don’t seem to have this recollection at all from our prior visit. They have a small museum as well as an interesting movie to watch before the tour, which does help you get your eye tuned in to what you’ll be seeing. Pech-Merle cave does have some unique drawings. They have a representation of a man with arrows in him, as well as some totally random symbols that have yet to be explained. They also have red and black spots on their animals, which also hasn’t been explained, but does help to make the figures a bit more interesting. In one panel, in different places, there are five different hand prints – mostly right hands, but one left hand – that the artist(s) included quite randomly. Some of the work has been carbon dated to 25,000 years old, some of the very oldest in Europe.
The road to Figeac -
After leaving Pech-Merle, we headed to Figeac, about 30 km away. We were desperately seeking gas for the car, but of course most places were closed for lunch! Finally Emmy guided us to a Total gas station in town that was open – whew! Cutting it a bit too close for me! We particularly wanted to see Figeac, as it is the hometown of Jean-Francois Champollion, the man who deciphered the Rosetta Stone, and they have a museum there that we wanted to see. We parked near the oldest part of town and went in to a local café for lunch. Robert had the vegetarian salad, which he said was good, and I had a GREAT Salade Paysanne – lettuce, tomato, warm boiled potatoes and warm ham cut up and all dressed in a mustard vinaigrette – it was fabulous and I ate every bite!
Wandered through some VERY old streets to the Musee Champollion. It is WONDERFUL! The first floor is dedicated to his life and work, and gives some explanations on how he was able to decipher the Rosetta Stone. The second floor had to do with Champollion’s work as the first Curator of the Egyptian Collection at the Louvre in Paris, as well as showcase pieces of his own personal collection of artifacts; very impressive. The top two floors of the museum had to do with the history of writing – showed examples from all over the world from the earliest cuneiform through to printing presses, and talked about how the spoken language was gradually written down and managed to work its way around the world. Special emphasis was put on Mayan writing which is currently undergoing analysis right now. The courtyard outside of the museum had a very LARGE copy of the Rosetta Stone in the middle – just looking at it, it’s truly a wonder that anybody figured out what it said!
From the museum we decided to head back, as we had a fairly lengthy 2+ hour drive in front of us. This time we stayed more on the main roads, which has its pluses and minuses, but did manage to make it back here and collapse about 5:15! I’m blogging now, and then we’ll think about what we’re doing for dinner tonight, as neither of us feels like cooking!
We do have one change in the itinerary – we are leaving Le Bugue tomorrow, rather than very early on Friday morning. We do have a 9-something a.m. flight from Bordeaux to Luton, England to catch, and R was rightly concerned that we’d have to really move it to get there on time. So, I’ve booked us in to the Hotel Majestic (lovely place in the centre of Bordeaux, where we stayed last year) for the night! That means 1) TV (so I’ll be able to watch a few minutes of the French Open, and 2) Internet access in our ROOM! What a concept!!
So – more later!
m
x
Tuesday, May 24, 2011
Yet another grotte to explore!
Bonjour!
After all the driving that we did yesterday, and a fairly late (for us) bedtime (11:30 p.m.) we didn’t get up this morning until 7:30! Had baguette and cheese, ham and orange juice for breakfast, and then Robert walked into town for the morning email check. I had put in a load of laundry right when we got up, and of course it was taking forever! Almost an hour and a half! So, I stayed and did dishes and had just gotten the laundry FINALLY out of the washer when R got back. Decided to skip the market in town, which today included not only fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses, but bric a brac (also known here as “brocante”) and crafts as well.
Headed north, directly to Grotte de Villars, as they close for lunch at 11:30 and it was already almost 9 a.m. Made it in about an hour and 15 minutes, over some decidedly beautiful back roads. Pulled up just in time to see a huge tour group being lead into the cave…ugh! Our group ended up consisting of the two of us, four Germans and the tour guide – as R said, definitely the best dressed guide we’ve ever seen – older lady in a red dress with stockings and flat black shoes! Very different! Grotte de Villars is primarily a geological show cave, with a few prehistoric paintings on the walls, now being covered in calcite concretions. The cave itself is magnificent. It is 13 km long, and very, very deep. Once we were in it, the lighting was spectacular, and there was also a sound and light show in one of the largest caverns. AND there were bats flying around. (I just love bats!) The paintings – the head of a bison, and several horses – weren’t great after what we have been seeing, but considering that prehistoric man/woman would have to tunnel such a huge distance, as well as try to paint while standing directly on stalagmites, it’s incredible that they were done at all! R would very much like to excavate underneath much of the surrounding calcite to see what is hidden there, but doesn’t look like that’s going to happen any time soon!
On exiting the cave and entering their little museum, I found what I have been looking for for the past year – the map of ALL the Grottes de France, with locations and information! This will make things MUCH easier in future, the next time we need a “cave” fix!
From Villars we decided to go straight to Sarlat, as it is such a lovely city. (Picked up a sandwich along the way for lunch.) Found a great parking space very near our lodgings of a couple of years ago, Villa des Consuls. (Have included a photo for Jay and Tommy and Chris and Brenda!) R still complaining because he had to walk UP HILL to get to it…oh well! Walked around town and took more pictures. Glad to miss their market, because, while it is wonderful, it also brings hoards of folks into town. This afternoon, in the hot sun, it was just populated enough to make it interesting. Decided that R had had enough aimless wandering, and headed back to Le Bugue for afternoon naps…which is what R is currently doing! Up soon, as we’re going out to dinner tonight, but trying to work it in between a phone call from Caltech…so not sure how long/late that will be!
More later!
m
x
After all the driving that we did yesterday, and a fairly late (for us) bedtime (11:30 p.m.) we didn’t get up this morning until 7:30! Had baguette and cheese, ham and orange juice for breakfast, and then Robert walked into town for the morning email check. I had put in a load of laundry right when we got up, and of course it was taking forever! Almost an hour and a half! So, I stayed and did dishes and had just gotten the laundry FINALLY out of the washer when R got back. Decided to skip the market in town, which today included not only fruits, vegetables, meats and cheeses, but bric a brac (also known here as “brocante”) and crafts as well.
Headed north, directly to Grotte de Villars, as they close for lunch at 11:30 and it was already almost 9 a.m. Made it in about an hour and 15 minutes, over some decidedly beautiful back roads. Pulled up just in time to see a huge tour group being lead into the cave…ugh! Our group ended up consisting of the two of us, four Germans and the tour guide – as R said, definitely the best dressed guide we’ve ever seen – older lady in a red dress with stockings and flat black shoes! Very different! Grotte de Villars is primarily a geological show cave, with a few prehistoric paintings on the walls, now being covered in calcite concretions. The cave itself is magnificent. It is 13 km long, and very, very deep. Once we were in it, the lighting was spectacular, and there was also a sound and light show in one of the largest caverns. AND there were bats flying around. (I just love bats!) The paintings – the head of a bison, and several horses – weren’t great after what we have been seeing, but considering that prehistoric man/woman would have to tunnel such a huge distance, as well as try to paint while standing directly on stalagmites, it’s incredible that they were done at all! R would very much like to excavate underneath much of the surrounding calcite to see what is hidden there, but doesn’t look like that’s going to happen any time soon!
On exiting the cave and entering their little museum, I found what I have been looking for for the past year – the map of ALL the Grottes de France, with locations and information! This will make things MUCH easier in future, the next time we need a “cave” fix!
From Villars we decided to go straight to Sarlat, as it is such a lovely city. (Picked up a sandwich along the way for lunch.) Found a great parking space very near our lodgings of a couple of years ago, Villa des Consuls. (Have included a photo for Jay and Tommy and Chris and Brenda!) R still complaining because he had to walk UP HILL to get to it…oh well! Walked around town and took more pictures. Glad to miss their market, because, while it is wonderful, it also brings hoards of folks into town. This afternoon, in the hot sun, it was just populated enough to make it interesting. Decided that R had had enough aimless wandering, and headed back to Le Bugue for afternoon naps…which is what R is currently doing! Up soon, as we’re going out to dinner tonight, but trying to work it in between a phone call from Caltech…so not sure how long/late that will be!
More later!
m
x
Monday, May 23, 2011
Another marvelous day!
Bonjour!
We were up fairly early, as we needed to walk into town to get croissants for breakfast. As today is Monday, many places were closed, but after our morning check-in at the hotel to check email, we were able to find an open shop – yummy all butter croissants and I had a pain au chocolat. Back to the house for breakfast. Why is French bread and croissants SO much better in France than in anywhere else in the world?? In true French fashion, the baguette we bought did NOT make it back to the house all in one piece…just HAD to take a bit off one end!
Ready to head out about 9:30 a.m. as we wanted to get to Grotte de Rouffignac when it opened at 10. And we were! For a few minutes we thought we were going to have the tour to ourselves, but then came the arrival of a busload of school children…a bit daunting, but the tour guide was wonderful with them, and they were incredibly considerate and well behaved! Who knew?! Grotte de Rouffignac is truly amazing. I have designated it my very FAVORITE cave of all time! We had been there before, several years ago, but I had forgotten how really wonderful it is! The cave is very, very long – really wonder how prehistoric man/woman ever found it! The paintings and engravings are so far back into the cave that they run a small train to get to them – it’s over a kilometer to the end! And, what is interesting about Rouffignac is that they have both wonderful etchings of mammoths, and then a very large area where many different types of animals are painted on the ceiling! At once place there is even a drawing that is partly etched into the rock and them completed by paint! We saw horses, bison, rhinoceros (!), aurochs, and mammoths; they were just incredible. I cannot tell you how impressive the work is, especially those that were painted as if they were moving; incredible! Also, the cave was VERY cold; I was FREEZING by the time we got out, even with my jacket on – saw some kids dressed in t-shirts – BRRRR!!
We did buy the guide to Rouffignac, and R took a photo of one of the pictures in it to give you some idea of what we saw!
From Rouffignac we decided to head to l’Abri de Cap Blanc to see the large frieze of horses actually sculpted into the rock. An Abri is a rock overhang, cut into the rock at the base by water at some point in the past, and not a cave. However, this particular abri had filled up with debris over the centuries, and the carvings had been covered up and, fortuitously, protected. However, when the area was being excavated in the early 1900’s, the dolts went in with picks and axes, looking for skeletons and prehistoric tools, and didn’t realize what they were doing until they had managed to actually destroy the bottom of the entire frieze! VANDALS! There are at least six horses, and the main one, in the center of the frieze, is actually life size! They are beautiful and HUGE! And, incredibly well sculpted – so difficult to see how they were made, especially as all they had to work with at the time were flints!
As it was after 1 p.m. by the time we were finished at Cap Blanc, we headed into Les Eyzies for lunch. Found our favorite restaurant – le Chateaubriand (several years ago, when we were here in November, it was about the only place open! Robert had two servings of their wonderful vegetable soup, and was so impressed that he went home and made a wonderful vegetable soup of his own!) We both had one of their menus, that came all on a large plate. R had a steak cooked with shallots, some marinated cucumbers, celeriac salad, green salad with a slice of cantal cheese, and a large pile of fries. I had all the same trimmings, but instead of the steak, I had a fabulous omelet with fresh cepes! It was GREAT! I’m not sure if I’ve ever had the opportunity to cook with fresh cepes – I’ve always found them dried; it was a wonderful experience! A pichet of the local dry white wine, and we were happy! Ate this time on their downstairs patio; just a beautiful day!
We were a bit tired by the end of lunch, so headed back for a lovely siesta. However, we were up again by 4:30 p.m. and out the door for a leisurely drive before dinner. And wow, what a drive! We meandered up and down some very tiny back roads, and went from Le Bugue to Bezac – lovely riverfront town, with a GREAT castle on top of the hill! Drove up the hill and did a quick 45 minutes in the castle, before they closed at 6:30 p.m. From there we drove along the Dordogne (a stunningly beautiful river!) past Le Roque (remember, Brenda and Chris?!) and up to Domme. Stopped long enough for some gelato and a walk along the parapet – incredible views and a really WARM afternoon.
(We have been keeping the windows and door closed at the house, and the house has stayed a really nice and cool temperature. In fact, at night several times we’ve had to turn on the heat! But this afternoon, when we stepped on to the porch, it was absolutely BAKING! Felt 95 at least! We think now that it was mostly as a result of the bricks on the patio; felt like an oven! Once we got the a/c going in the car, we were fine, and now, as it gets late, things are starting to cool down back to normal. We’re not quite ready for summer yet!)
From Domme we meandered yet again, this time collecting more castles along the way; past Castlenaud, past Les Milandes (Josephine Baker’s place…) and finally, I found my ideal place – Castle Fayrac. Do you ever wonder: If I won the lottery, what would I do with all that money? Well, I’ve found my answer!
Just a beautiful drive – including seeing red and blue hot air balloons drifting over the Dordogne…WOW!
I could live here...
First photo from Domme viewpoint; second of Castelnaud!
Back about 8:30 p.m. to blog, eat a quick dinner (plates of tomatoes with wonderful cheese and bread) and the white wine we got from Nathalie yesterday! (Thank you, Nathalie – it is delicious!!)
So – more later! Much love,
m
x
We were up fairly early, as we needed to walk into town to get croissants for breakfast. As today is Monday, many places were closed, but after our morning check-in at the hotel to check email, we were able to find an open shop – yummy all butter croissants and I had a pain au chocolat. Back to the house for breakfast. Why is French bread and croissants SO much better in France than in anywhere else in the world?? In true French fashion, the baguette we bought did NOT make it back to the house all in one piece…just HAD to take a bit off one end!
Ready to head out about 9:30 a.m. as we wanted to get to Grotte de Rouffignac when it opened at 10. And we were! For a few minutes we thought we were going to have the tour to ourselves, but then came the arrival of a busload of school children…a bit daunting, but the tour guide was wonderful with them, and they were incredibly considerate and well behaved! Who knew?! Grotte de Rouffignac is truly amazing. I have designated it my very FAVORITE cave of all time! We had been there before, several years ago, but I had forgotten how really wonderful it is! The cave is very, very long – really wonder how prehistoric man/woman ever found it! The paintings and engravings are so far back into the cave that they run a small train to get to them – it’s over a kilometer to the end! And, what is interesting about Rouffignac is that they have both wonderful etchings of mammoths, and then a very large area where many different types of animals are painted on the ceiling! At once place there is even a drawing that is partly etched into the rock and them completed by paint! We saw horses, bison, rhinoceros (!), aurochs, and mammoths; they were just incredible. I cannot tell you how impressive the work is, especially those that were painted as if they were moving; incredible! Also, the cave was VERY cold; I was FREEZING by the time we got out, even with my jacket on – saw some kids dressed in t-shirts – BRRRR!!
We did buy the guide to Rouffignac, and R took a photo of one of the pictures in it to give you some idea of what we saw!
From Rouffignac we decided to head to l’Abri de Cap Blanc to see the large frieze of horses actually sculpted into the rock. An Abri is a rock overhang, cut into the rock at the base by water at some point in the past, and not a cave. However, this particular abri had filled up with debris over the centuries, and the carvings had been covered up and, fortuitously, protected. However, when the area was being excavated in the early 1900’s, the dolts went in with picks and axes, looking for skeletons and prehistoric tools, and didn’t realize what they were doing until they had managed to actually destroy the bottom of the entire frieze! VANDALS! There are at least six horses, and the main one, in the center of the frieze, is actually life size! They are beautiful and HUGE! And, incredibly well sculpted – so difficult to see how they were made, especially as all they had to work with at the time were flints!
As it was after 1 p.m. by the time we were finished at Cap Blanc, we headed into Les Eyzies for lunch. Found our favorite restaurant – le Chateaubriand (several years ago, when we were here in November, it was about the only place open! Robert had two servings of their wonderful vegetable soup, and was so impressed that he went home and made a wonderful vegetable soup of his own!) We both had one of their menus, that came all on a large plate. R had a steak cooked with shallots, some marinated cucumbers, celeriac salad, green salad with a slice of cantal cheese, and a large pile of fries. I had all the same trimmings, but instead of the steak, I had a fabulous omelet with fresh cepes! It was GREAT! I’m not sure if I’ve ever had the opportunity to cook with fresh cepes – I’ve always found them dried; it was a wonderful experience! A pichet of the local dry white wine, and we were happy! Ate this time on their downstairs patio; just a beautiful day!
We were a bit tired by the end of lunch, so headed back for a lovely siesta. However, we were up again by 4:30 p.m. and out the door for a leisurely drive before dinner. And wow, what a drive! We meandered up and down some very tiny back roads, and went from Le Bugue to Bezac – lovely riverfront town, with a GREAT castle on top of the hill! Drove up the hill and did a quick 45 minutes in the castle, before they closed at 6:30 p.m. From there we drove along the Dordogne (a stunningly beautiful river!) past Le Roque (remember, Brenda and Chris?!) and up to Domme. Stopped long enough for some gelato and a walk along the parapet – incredible views and a really WARM afternoon.
(We have been keeping the windows and door closed at the house, and the house has stayed a really nice and cool temperature. In fact, at night several times we’ve had to turn on the heat! But this afternoon, when we stepped on to the porch, it was absolutely BAKING! Felt 95 at least! We think now that it was mostly as a result of the bricks on the patio; felt like an oven! Once we got the a/c going in the car, we were fine, and now, as it gets late, things are starting to cool down back to normal. We’re not quite ready for summer yet!)
From Domme we meandered yet again, this time collecting more castles along the way; past Castlenaud, past Les Milandes (Josephine Baker’s place…) and finally, I found my ideal place – Castle Fayrac. Do you ever wonder: If I won the lottery, what would I do with all that money? Well, I’ve found my answer!
Just a beautiful drive – including seeing red and blue hot air balloons drifting over the Dordogne…WOW!
I could live here...
First photo from Domme viewpoint; second of Castelnaud!
Back about 8:30 p.m. to blog, eat a quick dinner (plates of tomatoes with wonderful cheese and bread) and the white wine we got from Nathalie yesterday! (Thank you, Nathalie – it is delicious!!)
So – more later! Much love,
m
x
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)